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Rating: A

Tucked in a tiny strip mall, in a secluded Vallejo community, is a real gem. Named for the young chef who runs the open kitchen, this restaurant is worth the effort to go to. The other employee is his wife, a friendly young lady eager to make the expience special.

The place holds about 20-25 diners and reservations are a must. Guests are staggered so that the meals run smoothly. In keeping with the elegant simplicity of the place, they only take reservations by phone and when I called, Chef made my reservations. The focal point is a poured concrete counter with chairs, surrounding the kitchen. This is the place to sit. It is poetry in motion to watch the couple plate, serve, bus, fill glasses, etc.; they are well-matched.

The meal is set. $66 for the dinner, an additional $33 for wine pairing. We were asked if we had any food allergies, and then the fun began.

The website says Michael is a work in progress. He is progressing well! His flavor combinations are unique and delightful. Presentation was beautiful, portions were just right. There was clear attention to detail. The menu changes daily, but if our experience is any measure, I’m sure every night is good.

7 tasting courses:

Stone fruit with sweet crumbled oatmeal cookie. A green dressed with dill and white wine sabayon. This started the meal with a bang!
Hamachi macaron. Pickled blackberries, meringue made with miso, grated fish roe, and tiny mint leaves. Amazing
Hand cut noodles on a layer of hen’s yolk, covered in shaved black truffles and topped with popcorn foam. Wow. Just wow.
Bavette, piece of steak that was sousvide then grilled. Served with a chunk of porcini, sunchoke and spring veggies. The white is a dust made of browned butter. Sprinkled on the plate was some sumac. This was my favorite which is saying a lot, since everything was amazing.
Cheese plate. Served with toasted brioche covered in apricot jam and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. This was delightful.
Look closely and you can see the nitro anglaise floating over the bowl. Cherries on a bed of cardamom and cocoa, with sweet anglaise that was similar to vanilla ice cream. A very tasty, balanced dish.
Strawberry cheesecake truffle, made in Napa, finished the meal.

This meal was memorable from start to finish. This was art.

Return: Absolutely

Michael Warring 8300 Bennington Dr, Vallejo. (707) 655-4808.

Hiramasa with fig, aged basaltic and foie gras

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